Each year I make a pilgrimage to Salento, a geographic region in the southernmost reaches of Puglia. I have a little place there in Matino, a hillside town facing the Ionian Sea. According to local legend, the ground floor dates back to 1600, when it formed a chapel and hospital for the poor that doubled as a rest stop for pilgrims en route to Santa Maria de Leuca. I like to think of my own trips there along similar lines: journeys of discovery, with meaning and purpose, to the rugged but lovely heel of the Italian boot.

Salento is Italy but not as you know it. It’s provincial and raw, closer geographically to Greece and Albania than Florence or Milan, and – with all doors shuttered for the afternoon siesta – a little Spanish in spirit. It has its own language and customs and a tough but proud history stretching back to Magna Grecia. Ask a local how they identify and it’s probably Salentino first, Pugliese second.

For me getting there, via Rome and Lecce, is half the fun. Flying into Fiumicino, a few days bouncing around the capital chasing Caravaggios, ancient sculpture and the perfect amatriciana before dashing down to Puglia on the Frecciargento. Then basking in Lecce’s provincial elegance, the whole town built of soft and golden pietra leccese. And finally driving south into the Basso Salento, a rustic tapestry of towns flanked by the rocky and dramatic Adriatic coast on one side, and the white sand beaches of the Ionian on the other.

I’ve put together a small-group adventure retracing these steps, beginning at Soho House Rome, then Patria Palace in Lecce and (as my place in Matino is on the compact side) the mesmerisingly beautiful guesthouse, Il Convento di Santa Maria di Costantinopoli.

The Pursuit Of: Rome to Salento is a relaxed small-group jaunt that retraces these steps and takes in two distinct but compelling corners of Italy. From the exuberance of the Eternal City to the rustic beauty of southern Puglia, discover amazing art and architecture, breathtaking landscapes and fabulous food. Not to mention wonderful people. Just being around Italians – especially from Rome south – opens the portal to la dolce vita.

10 Nights

13-23 September and 18-28 October 2024

From AUD13,500 per person (double occupancy) including GST

50% deposit with balance due 90 days prior to departure

Day 1-5: Rome.

Forget the sea of selfie sticks between the Vatican, Colosseum and Trevi Fountain. Rome abounds in hidden delights. Check into Soho House – the first Italian outpost of the British members-club marque – next to La Sapienza university in the quirky and bohemian neighbourhood of San Lorenzo. From here we’ll explore superb, lesser-known sites, from the frescoed loggia of Palazzo Altemps to the faded grandeur of the Doria Pamphilj, with its worn silk walls and billion-dollar collection of Italian art. We’ll wander the halls of Palazzo Colonna (home of the princely Colonna family since the 14th-century), discover the frescoes of a 2000-year-old sunken dining room and hunt for fabulous Caravaggios. Think long walks and even longer lunches – including my favourite restaurant on the planet – with plenty of downtime for la dolce vita back at the House, relaxing by the rooftop pool with its 360-degree views of the Eternal City.

Day 5-7: Lecce.

Centuries ago, the most devoted and adventurous pilgrims travelled the final leg of the Via Francigena from Rome to Puglia, to embark for the Holy Land. Today the high-speed Frecciargento gets us to Lecce in just five hours – with an espresso, spritz or glass of chianti in hand. Lecce’s beauty is on show the moment we leave the station, building crescendo-like to the town’s sublime centro storico. Check into Patria Palace, an 18th-century palazzo made over as a chic boutique hotel, overlooking the just-restored Basilica of Santa Croce. Doors leading to hidden courtyards punctuate facades in the elaborate Salento Baroque style, making Lecce’s streetscapes perfect for the passeggiata, glowing gold as the sun goes down.

Day 7-12: Marittima

Il Convento di Santa Maria di Costantinopoli is the home of Athena McAlpine and one of the world’s most magical guesthouses, with 500-year-old cloisters and a stellar collection of textiles and tribal art. Much was assembled by Athena’s late husband, Alistair McAlpine, whose taste over the years ranged from Abstract Expressionism to policeman’s truncheons, in between building hotels in Australia, politicking in Britain and writing the back page of The World of Interiors. Alongside the museum-grade collection of weavings and tribal objects, expect to find 14 tonnes of books and massive canvasses by McAlpine’s friend, Sidney Nolan, alongside walled gardens, a gorgeous swimming pool and delicious home-cooked food. Perched between Diso and Marittima on the Adriatic side of the peninsula, it’s walking distance to one of Salento’s best swimming spots, the turquoise cove of Acquaviva, and a short drive to the region’s most charming towns and villages – including Matino – all under the radar and just waiting to be explored.

Experience two distinct but compelling corners of Italy, from the exuberance of Rome to the rustic beauty of southern Puglia. 

The Pursuit Of Italy: Rome to Salento

10 nights

13-23 September or 18-28 October 2024

From AUD 13,500 per person (double occupancy), including GST

50% deposit with balance due 90 days prior to departure